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Bangladesh, bouquets, banning bee-killing pesticides and more

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What do cut flowers and sweat socks have in common? On the surface, not so much. However, if you follow the trail back to where they were made, they both come with a pretty heavy back story the store clerk doesn’t often sell you on.  The story, whether we’re talking Joe Fresh socks or the Mother’s Day flowers slowly wilting in your mom’s vase (both featured in this week’s Ecoholic spread in NOW), is the one about the people getting shafted, ill and killed to make our stuff under atrocious working conditions with virtually no safety regulations safeguarding their health (or the health of the planet). Why do I keep harping on this in Ecoholic? Isn’t this a green living blog not a worker rights symposium? Well, before I started working as a news journalist, I was first an anti-sweatshop activist and then worked as a labour rights researcher so the issue is really near and dear to my heart. I’ve always been drawn to the hidden impacts of all the stuff we buy – whether it was tested on animals, whether it was made in a sweatshop, whether it’s loaded with carcinogens and hormone disruptors, whether it ravages ecosystems to make it, use it or toss it. If we’re going to live more consciously on this planet, it’s time to consider the whole truth about the stuff we buy – and demand a better way.

20130514adira_largeThe good news is the media glare that’s accompanied over 1100 human beings crushed to death in a factory collapse in Bangladesh has pushed H&M, the owner of Zara, Benetton, Mango and as of Tuesday Loblaw/Joe Fresh to sign the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh with the Global Unions IndustriALL and UNI as well as Bangladeshi unions. Gap (big daddy to Old Navy/Banana Republic brands) and Walmart are still refusing to sign on.

But no matter what brand you buy, unless you weave it and sew it yourself, you’ve got to ask questions about how it was made. One thing I learned on the job as as an anti-sweatshop researcher is if they’re shitting on they’re workers they’re no doubt dumping dyes, wrinke-retardants and a stew of processing chems into local waterways too (just check out Greenpeace’s Detox campaign, now targetting Gap’s toxic trail). I also learned that you should only boycott a company if its workers call for a boycott. But even if you choose never to buy Joe Fresh, Mango, Zara, Benetton, Children’s Place, Dress Barn or Walmart (all of which were clients of the collapsed building) you may be walking into a store whose labour rights record is still sitting like a poison mushroom in the dark. So please, check your closet, pick your favourite brands sourcing in Bangladesh and take 30 seconds out of your day to honour the women and men quite literally dying to make our stuff by asking those brands to sign onto the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh ASAP. Post it on their Facebook page, tweet it, tell the store manager, email the company directly, and pass it on to friends. And next time you’re buying any brand, be it made in Canada or China, ask them what they’re doing to make sure they’re ethically and environmentally made. We need to keep reminding brands that we’re paying attention.

Wait! Before you go, don’t forget to check out the Ecoholic spread on  guilt-free flowers,and my weekly Nature Notes on cage-free pork and the EU’s ban on bee-killing pesticides. Lots going on in Ecoholic every week!

Clothing is the new meth? The toxic cocktail in your closet

news-eco-0307_largeEver wonder what that smell is on your new clothes? It could be one of countless chemical substances used in the making of shirts, pants, outwear, you name it. Not all the hazardous compounds involved will give off a scent or trigger reactions but they are definitely making the workers who make our clothes and the rivers surrounding them sick. To find out what’s lurking in your closet and which clothing companies have vowed to #Detox their brands by 2020, you’ll want to check out this Ecoholic column.  PS if you’ve got chemical sensitivities,  you need to take extra precautions. Here’s a column  I did a little while back on clothing for those with multiple chemical sensitivities.

I’m Dreaming of a Green Xmas: One of Kind Show (part 1)

If you’ve been anywhere near a mall or retail store of any kind lately, you know the holiday gift buying season is upon us and quickly escalating in frenzy-factor. My family isn’t big into holiday gift swapping (you should have seen the eye-rolling I got from my siblings when I suggested we at least make each other
DIY stuff -  I think the accompanying quote was, “That’s easy for you to say!”). Regardless, I still make a point of going to the One of A Kind Show every year (twice a year actually). I call it “work” (scoping for green artisans), but I also get to sneak in a few prezzies for, well, me, on the side. If you live in TO, Van City or Chicago you know the OOAKS is loaded with handmade, sustainably goodness.  If you’re expecting a lot of wood carved ornaments and fruit cakes, well, those are there, but it ain’t all crafts, sugar. I thought I’d give you a tour of some of the countless green retailers I stumbled upon in Part One of my OOAKS tour.

First of all, the places is loaded with some of my favourite eco clothing designers featured in Ecoholic Body like Atelier B, Lilikoi Clothing, eco plus size darling Chloe Angus and snuggly organic PJs by Schoolyard Studio. (All way better gift options than hitting Jacob or H&M!). I just happened score myself an awesome upcycled sweater dress from Susan Harris Design (pictured right, squeezed over my pants/ shirt!).  On the accessory front, one of my fave scarf/belt designers is Noujica (top/left) and the recycled leather queens at Cokluch

are awesome for scrap leather earrings, mitts and way more (left). Speaking of jewellery, Billy Would Designs, also in Ecoholic Body, does great reclaimed wood stuff. Met upcycled bag maker Mined reCreations, which will even do custom work with your old letter jacket/grandmother’s old wedding dress/dad’s fave blanket you name it (right).

Then there’s fab all natural bodycare like Matter Company (top right) and DaLish Cosmetics (FYI, the portable lip/cheek tints have serious staying power!).

And tons of other random/useful goodness, like The reCycler’s clocks and candlesticks made from old bike parts, Abeego‘s awesome beeswax cling wrap and so so much more. So much so that I didn’t have time see the whole show in the time I had. So I’m going back in…look out for part 2 for more sustainable, green brands/gift ideas.

 

 

Sustainable fashion goes mainstream at Eco Fashion Week

Did I mention I used to own my own one-woman sweatshop? Yep, I was, ironically, working in the anti-sweatshop movement by day and sewing a stack full of wide leg pants in my kitchen by night.  I paid myself, well, nothing. After a while of outfitting my friends with poorly sewn clothes I decided to leave fashion to the real pros. Speaking of which, next week is Toronto Fashion Week but the real story in my books is Eco Fashion Week in Vancouver. I love Canadian made fashion, absolutely, but I get extra hot under the collar when local designers decide to bring their collections to life with eco friendly fabrics. Starting October 16, Eco Fashion Week will be showcasing a few of my faves including Nicole Bridger, Atelier B, Adhesif, Myco Anna. Those last two by the way, make all kinds of fab fashions with upcycled/reconstructed vintage fabrics – which helps explain why Value Village is such a perfect event sponsor.

This week’s Ecoholic column talks about mainstream sources for eco-friendly fashion. I offer up a break down of all the big brands that carry a sprinkling of eco fabrics but in all honesty, the mall brands don’t go anywhere near far enough. Plus, trust me, you can’t guarantee they’re sweatshop-free. I say thrift shop and swap your way to sustainable affordable fashion and when you do buy new, buy less, buy quality that lasts and check out some of these awesome eco designers gracing Eco Fashion Week and the pages of Ecoholic, not mention my super stuffed fashion section in Ecoholic Body.

 

 

Is bamboo really full of bologna?

So after our big Lousy Labels: Home Edition episode on CBC Marketplace I’ve been getting a lot of emails and questions from readers asking me if bamboo is really, well, full of bologna. Truth is, it’s complicated. The short answer is solid bamboo wood (the kind used in flooring) is perfectly fine, for the most part, unless it’s bound together with formaldehyde-releasing glues (which is common in the flooring world), especially if that bamboo comes from Forest Stewardship Council-certified forests. An example of one such bamboo flooring (FSC-certified and formaldehyde-free) is Plyboo. Canadian-based Silkroad flooring is certified EcoLogo to be ultra low in formaldehyde.

As for fabrics, the short answer is: making rayon, any rayon (whether regular rayon or bamboo rayon), involves a lot of chemicals (namely very polluting carbon disulphide, a reproductive toxin). Now bamboo rayon is greener than regular rayon (because chopping down fast-growing bamboo is greener than chopping down the trees you need for regular rayon) but it still uses the same polluting chems to make that bamboo soft.

Is bamboo rayon as green as organic cotton or greenest of all, hemp? No. Is it greener than polyester/acrylic/nylon/spandex/other petroleum-based fabrics? Yes. Compare it to toxic pesticide-laced conventional cotton (sometimes called the world’s “dirtiest crop” because it uses incredible quantities of insecticide) and it should win out too. But we expect more from our green fabrics….

Still, not all bamboo is created equal!

Tips for picking a greener bamboo fabric:

  • Some bamboo manufacturers are borrowing cleaner processing techniques from Tencel/lyocell. Tencel/lyocell uses gentler solvents and closed loop techniques (which means they recover/recycle 99% of its chemicals). Some bamboo makers are also using certified organic bamboo to prove that the bamboo was harvested sustainably. Others get Oeko Tex 100 certified to prove that the final fabric/item of clothing isn’t sprayed with a chemical like formaldehyde (it does NOT mean that no chemicals were used to process the fabric itself).
  • Look for brands that say they use closed loop bamboo rayon like Canadian eco clothing designer Miik, which also uses certified organic bamboo that’s Oeko Tex 100 certified. Other “closed loop” organic bamboo users include US-based Jonono and Bamboosa (in their process, 100% of the sodium hydroxide and 74% of the carbon disulphide is recovered and recycled for further use).
  • Look for brands that say they use bamboo lyocell. This is even rarer but they exist, like Bamboo Five.
  • Look for clothing made from Tencel, or eucalyptus-based lyocell (sometimes just called eucalyptus fabric). Fashion forward and Canadian-made Kali Clothing uses a lot of Tencel. So does Modrobes.
  • If you love a company that uses regular bamboo (as so many amazing eco fashion designers do – we love our Canadian-made, sweatshop-free and fair trade brands!), encourage them to switch to greener forms.

You can find more details on bamboo in both Ecoholic Home and Ecoholic Body.

 

Back 2 school special: avoiding toxin-laced school supplies

I don’t know about you, but I was always a chewer. Whether I was 5 years old or 15, I always ended up gnawing on my erasers/pencils/necklace charms, you name it, while daydreaming or stressing out in class. Not like some kids who nearly ate the things like apples but, no doubt, enough to take in a dose of whatever toxins were in there. And trust me, there were plenty.

California’s Center for Health, Environment and Justice recently sampled 20 vinyl backpacks, lunch bags, 3-ring binders, rain boots and rain coats for their report Hidden Hazards: Toxic Chemicals Inside Children’s Vinyl Back-to-School Supplies and the news wasn’t good.  Turns out 75% of the vinyl school supplies contained hormone-disrupting phthalates at levels that would be illegal in children’s toys. Alarming numbers. Time to tell our MPs to extend phthalate regs so they apply to school supplies.

If you’re looking to avoid the dodgy onslaught of plastics in school supplies, stay away from PVC/vinyl like the plague. It’s often shiny and a little squishy (since it’s been softened with phthalates). Buffalo Natur offers up all kinds of cool stuff from colourful jute backpacks/lunch bags/laptop sleeves to recycled erasers/calculators/coloured pencils, a lot of which are available from Grassroots and a you’ll find a little at Canadian Tire (Buffalo Natur says you’ll soon be able to shop on their site too, so check back in a few weeks). For younger kids, Skip Hop school bags aren’t made of natural or recycled fibres but they are ridiculously cute and BPA-, phthalate-, and PVC-free since they’re made of nylon (see the store locator). Older students can find all sorts of cool back packs made  out of recycled fibres via Onsight Equipment, House of Marley, and from Mountainsmith (via Amazon).

For more tips on going back to school the eco way, check out this Canadian Press article with me and my pal Gill Deacon – hot off the presses.

 

Postcards from the Road: Nelson

 

Still Eagle in Nelson, BC

Criss-crossing the country promoting Ecoholic Body, I’ve gathered up a few postcards from the road. First up: beautiful Nelson, B.C. After stopping by Breakfast Television Edmonton and doing a book signing at the one-and-only Carbon Enviromental Boutique (also in eternally-sunny Edmonton) I headed for a little R’ n’ R in the Kootenay’s (which happens to be where my sister, Lisa, and niece/Ecoholic Body-product tester, Brianne, live). The mountain town famous for its hippy vibes and statue to draft dodgers is loaded to the brim with all things eco…including a couple clothing shops featured in Ecoholic Body so I figured I’d stop by. Great shops like Still Eagle (snapped above)…

And lovely Lilikoi (left). This Nelson-based clothing line is featured in my sidebar Canada’s Next Top (Role) Models: 15 Fab Green Clothing Designers. It was cool to see founder Barbara Boswell’s vision come to life in this bright, airy boutique on the main drag in town.

I was eyeballing her Pollack-esque Drop Cloth purses, literally made from the drop cloths on which Lilikoi clothing are all hand-printed…very cool stuff. Like Still Eagle, you can shop at Lilikoi‘s online store, even if you’re not lucky enough to pop into Nelson.

Plus I stumbled across new shops I hadn’t yet discovered like super cute Tara Davis stuffed with upcycled accessories and crafty finds as well as Global Underground, which, while it doesn’t market itself as eco, is crammed to the gills with stylin’ west coast eco threads by the likes of local star Dear Pony (check out their Etsy store), new eco designs by Victoria’s Floating Gold Iceberg and awesome graphic dresses and Ts by Salt Spring’s Ink Spoon (these guys also do online sales). I scored a couple finds here myself.

Anyone who’s been to Nelson knows leaving it is hard to do. I can see why so many expats from all over the continent now call this corner of the Kootenay’s home. I’m lucky one of them is my sister. Hopefully that means I can set my eyes on Nelson’s stunning lakes, rivers, beaches and valleys again soon.

Is that petrol in your pants? The ins & outs of synthetic clothing

I was slack-jawed when I first realized that polyester came from petroleum. My first words were something like: “What the? How…do they…do…that?” No one really sits you down and tells you how synthetic blouses are born. There’s certainly no stork involved.  This week’s reader Q on wicking/activewear fabrics gave me a chance to dive back into the topic of the broader environmental impact of petroleum-based clothes.  Take a peak at my new Ecoholic column on activewear and you’ll see what I mean.  And this ain’t all about sports bras and bike shorts. We’re all sporting synthetic petro-fibres somewhere in our closets, whether it’s in our rain coats or in socks, really anything made of or blended with nylon, acrylic, polyester (CoolMax), Spandex/Lycra (elastane), Goretex (a Teflon treated fabric), you name it. It’s all petrol-based.

Petrochemicals are not only woven into 38 million tonnes of clothing every year, they make their way into our shampoo, lip balms and any bodycare that contains:

  •    paraffin (common in moisturizer, lipstick, mascara) 
  •    mineral oil (ointment, baby oil, lotion, cosmetics, shaving cream) 
  •    petrolatum (lip balm, petroleum jelly, soap, lotion, hair pastes) 
  •    isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol, nail polish) 
  •    microcrystalline wax (big in lipstick, gloss, sunscreen) 
  •    synthetic wax (mascara, foundation, concealer) 
  •    propylene glycol (deodorant, lube, eyeshadow) 

as well as our laptops, iPods, TVs and really everything that surrounds us made of plastic, of course. But the added problem with our clothes, as recent research has found, is that every time we wash our fleece hoody, acrylic sweater or Lululemon pants, up to 2000 bits of micro-plastic particles end up washing out into the seas/lakes/rivers downstream. Not good.

What’s leaching from this stuff into us? Hard to say. The heavy metal antimony has been found to leach a little from PET (aka polyester) water bottles into water over time, though I’d be less worried about antimony leaching into your body during a workout and more concerned about the antimony pollution seeping into our air and water from manufacturing polyester/PET. Companies like Mountain Equipment Co-op and Patagonia have been trying to figure out antimony-free processing for their recycled polyester apparel but it’s still not there yet.

As an aside, I’d rethink any bike shorts and the like made with a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish. Patagonia has told me it does give off a PFOA dust (PFOA is the bad, cancer-linked persistent chem used to make Teflon) as it breaks down (they’re working on being PFOA free by fall 2013). Water repellent finishes are important in outer wear if you’re going to be biking in the rain but totally superfluous when it comes to shorts so skip it. For the low-down on activewear that minimizes petroleum-based fibres check out this week’s issue of Ecoholic.  P.S. There’s lots more info and recommendations on all types of clothing from maternity to menswear, plus sizes to lingerie, clothing for the chemically sensitive and way way more in Ecoholic Body! 

 

Where can I find fair trade shoes?

Fair Trade Shoes

If the shoe fits, do you buy it? I can tell you finding footwear to fit my size 11 requirements is no easy… well, you know. But tracking down ethically made shoes has thankfully gotten a little easier over the course of my years at Ecoholic – a major relief considering the newest sweatshop allegations hot off the assembly line.

Just last week, War on Want, a UK-based anti-poverty organization, released a scathing report detailing Adidas, Nike and Puma’s exploitation of Bangladeshi workers in the lead-up to the 2012 Olympics. The brands, which sponsor athletes and teams for the Games, were caught sourcing from five factories that failed to pay the nation’s basic minimum wage (on average, they paid workers 25 cents an hour). Read more…