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Natural vs green: what does it really mean?

Natural vs green labels

After a lunch time talk I gave at Edmonton’s city hall last month, one woman approached me and asked me if I could spend more time talking about the difference between green/eco-friendly and natural. The terms, she said, were too often used interchangeably, and she’s right. We tend to flip back and forth between the two as though they’re twins, but that isn’t always the case. Sometimes there are gaping distances between them (more like Danny Devito and Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Twins). So I clarified the issue in this week’s Ecoholic column. To dive into the details, read more here.

You know I love to call out companies that claim they’re natural, claim they’re green but are really just full of BS. What of companies that can honestly claim to be both, to some degree? I had a lengthy conversation with a chemist at Nature Clean, one of Canada’s oldest ‘natural/naturally-derived,’ ‘nontoxic,’ ‘biodegradable’ cleaning companies, certified by EcoLogo. I’ve given good reviews to their Tub and Tile cream and all purpose cleaner, but started getting agitated by the fact that it contained a palm-derived ingredient. Natural, yes? But green? Well, not so much. I’ve been itching to know why they’d use palm-derived fatty polyglycoside when palm is such a controversial ingredient plagued by sustainability woes (hence why it’s on my Ecoholic Body Mean 15 list). So I gave Nature Clean a call and ended up in a surprisingly open, frank dialogue on green versus natural with their chemist Martin Vince.

Nature Clean LabelMartin first tells me their palm ingredient is fully certified via the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil. I know the RSPO is the only sustainable palm certifier out there and is the only organized attempt at greening the industry, but the RSPO has faced a lot of flack for letting violations slide, I point out. Martin responds, “We know the Roundtable is not the ideal situation, but it’s better than not having it.” Why not avoid the ingredient altogether then? “We are actively looking for alternatives. We’re looking at grapeseed derived surfactants, but they’re not suitable for cleaning products currently. Alkyl polyglucosides are one of very few surfactants that are 100% natural (palm oil mixed with dextrose). Most are hybrids like alcohol ethoxylates, which has chances of contamination with [carcinogenic] 1-4 dioxane. We’ve chosen the purest we can currently use. And we do need surfactants because that’s what does the cleaning.”

What do you think? I know Martin’s right when he says says that replacement ingredients aren’t without impact either. Coconut plantations (like all monoculture crops) also encroach on natural habitat and basic table salt (used in natural cleaners) can certainly be ecologically disruptive to mine. Everything we buy has an impact somewhere, whether we’ve taken it from nature or concoct it in a lab, but let’s agree some are worse than others.

I’ve got to admit that at least Nature Clean has put itself out there more than other “green/natural” cleaners who refuse to list their full ingredients and simply offer up vague terms like “plant-based surfactants” or, in the case of Eco-Mist, “potatoes, corn, grains” (come on, that’s a recipe for stew not a clear, watery cleaner). Ultimately, as consumers, we’ve got to keep reminding companies that we’re watching and that yes, we want it all. Not everything we buy will be totally green (in its many senses of the word) and natural, but we’ve to push them and ourselves to come close.

 

What’s hiding in your wipes?

news-eco-0314_largeTo wipe or not to wipe

I know, I know, wipes are seriously convenient when you’re on the go, but you probably know it’s definitely more sustainable to go the reusable cloth/wipe/rag route. You wipe junkies will have my head if I tell you to axe them from your life permanently, but can we agree to reducing? Let’s try a tradeoff. Cut out disposable wipes from your cleaning routine and home bodycare routine (that means NO using moist wipes instead of TP!) and keep the disposables for when you’re out and about. For the DIY route, an old flannel sheet cut up into squares works beautifully. Now what to look for when you’re shopping for greener wipes? Read the latest Ecoholic column on the topic! Here are a few bonus bits of info.

Rash-worthy ingredients

The thing with wipes is the chemical substances aren’t rinsed off, they get to stay on skin. Not good since so many wipes contain stuff like parabens and serious irritants. Also, just because the wipe says it’s natural, doesn’t mean it’s free of dodgy chemicals.  Huggies Naturals wipes replaced formaldehyde- releasing DMDM hydantoin with methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone. Not good! Dermatology journals have documented cases of sores, redness and itching on people’s behinds, hands, etc from using moist wipes that contain the preservatives (these bad boys are so irritating they’re on Health Canada’s hotlist of restricted ingredients).

Phenoxyethanol, while really common in paraben-free products like Aleva, can also trigger skin reactions with prolonged contact in some so isn’t desirable in products that stay on the skin. Ditto for cocamidopropyl betaine, which may really irritate some (like my mom!). FYI, phenoxyethanol used to be okayed by some organic certifiers like Ecocert, but Ecocert has since changed its mind.

Don’t believe the biodegradable hype

I’m glad there are so many wipes out there that are offering alternatives to typical petroleum-fibre materials (like polyester, etc), but be aware that if your wipes say they’re made of tree pulp or cellulose fibre, they’re mostly just rayon AKA viscose – yes, your wipes, too. Rayon/viscose fibre is made of tree pulp aka cellulose fibre and, as I say in the column, the Federal Trade Commission cracked down on bamboo rayon companies claiming their materials were biodegradable because, well, nothing biodegrades in your typical North American landfill – and city composters just skims all wipes out. Also processing tree pulp, even bamboo, into a soft fabric like rayon involves a lot of polluting chems. All this to say, your wipes really not going to biodegrade, so let’s try to use less of them. Deal?

 

 

 

 

The scoop on petroleum jelly

Petroleum jelly

This one’s for all the baby mama, baby daddy and all the other petroleum jelly users out there. Is it safe? Is it sustainable? What should you replace it with? You’ll find the full scoop in the latest Ecoholic column right here.

 

 

Lashing out at faked mascara ads

20130220lashingout_largeCan someone tell me, when did mascara companies start promising Betty Boop lashes with every stroke? Makeup ads have always pushed jumbo lashes, true, but sometime over the last few years, we’ve started seeing eyelashes on steroids. Like if your lashes don’t look as though they were sliced off the back of a glossy mink and glued to your lids, you’re not a real woman.

No wonder I hear more women whispering about their secret desires to dye/glue/perm their lashes and lash bars keep sprouting up around town. Our cultural swell in ‘great lash’ inadequacy (I know, I’ve had it too) is really just the latest in airbrush-driven insecurities fuelling the rise of the female toxic body burden.

Over the last couple years, the UK’s Advertising Standards Authority has actually smacked down Rimmel and, this past fall, banned a Dior ad because they were applying their mascara to fake lashes. Talk about false advertising. The ASA has also pulled an overly airbrushed foundation ad, anti-wrinkle cream ad and more for similar reasons. Alas, the same ‘bullshit in advertising standards’ have not been applied to most North American glossy mags. Mostly, because here in Canada we have a complaint-driven system and not enough of us have been officially complaining. Though last summer a 14-year old in the U.S. did manage to start a change.org petition that convinced Seventeen magazine to stop with its incessant airbrushing, already.

If these faked, glammed up images just fed our insecurities in order to drive a product’s sales, it would be one thing. But they’re mostly selling products that pump more harmful chemicals into our already overloaded bodies. And when our expectations are so artificially jacked from floating in a sea of unfair images, lots of women will try a natural mascara and say, “Meh, not enough ‘wow factor, sorry.’” I know, I hear it from my friends all the time – especially on the mascara front. When the visual cues we get from ads are so far off from every day realities, hell yeah, a lot of women feel the heat and reach for the big guns – not just mascara that promises false lash effects or 12-hour lipsticks but lash extensions, the lash lifts, the list goes on.

I’m no judge. I’ve been a sucker for some of these promises, too. A newly packaged tube of Organic Wear Natural Lash Boosting Mascara lured me in by promising that”100% saw thicker & longer looking lashes instantly! 94% saw extended & fuller looking lashes after 4 weeks!”

Wow, was this actually a natural lash grower not to feel guilty about? Of course, standing amid ‘Colossal’ ‘Volum Express Falsies Flared’TM wands of ‘Illegal Lengths’ I wanted to ignore the small disclaimer on the box that confessed the stats had, well, no clinical validity: “*Based on individual perception of results of a panel of women wearing Organic Wear Lash Boosting Mascara.”

Based on individual perception. Right.

I’m not telling you to give up makeup. I wear it pretty much every day. I’m just saying let’s all raise our middle fingers towards Madison Avenue – and their false lash effects. We don’t need the added hormone disruptors and ecosystem toxins their drugstore psychology is trying to sell us. Then put your fingers down and take a second look at some of the genuinely natural makeup brands on the market that do a hell of job working with naturally-derived ingredients. I mention some of my favourites in the latest Ecoholic column and even more in Ecoholic Body. You might have to bend just a little on the lash-boosting power but I promise they’ll enhance what nature gave you and deliver way more feel-good factor for your buck.

Oh, and if you want to complain about an ad’s unfair or deceptive advertising tactics, don’t be shy. Call the Competition Bureau: 1-800-348-5358 or fill out an online complaint form here. And get your friends to do the same. All it takes is half a dozen people complaining about the same thing to have an official investigation launched.

First published in nowtoronto.com

EcoholicTV: Dry Skin SOS

Ecoholic TV: Dry Skin SOS from Adria Vasil on Vimeo.

Ecoholic TV is back! Yep, we’re here with more Ecoholic Health Corner and this time I run to my old friend and naturopath Alexandra (aka Alex) Triendl for some extra help tackling winter’s dry skin curse. Got eczema? Psoriasis? Or just plain dry skin? Tune in for some ideas on supplements, masks and more. Oh and in case you missed it, here’s a link to our last video on beating colds and flus naturally and sustainably.

Forget ‘anti-aging,’ how about healthy, sustainable aging?

The latest Ecoholic column question came from a handful of readers wondering about what anti-aging products I recommend.  The truth is there’s a lot of BS in this field so you should take the claims on mainstream AND natural lotions and potions with not a grain but a handful of salt. (And no, I don’t suggest rubbing salt on your face). For natural products I do think moisturize well and/or provide good sun protection to help you age your best, read the column here. Speaking of aging your best, many of you told me we need to ditch the anti-aging attitude altogether and embrace aging gracefully. I totally concur! My gorgeous mom is the perfect example of a woman aging naturally with grace. She puts coconut oil on every night, monthly olive oil treatments on her hair and a weekly egg face mask. Now, if you want to be proactive about aging well  here are couple Brains Before Beauty suggestions from Ecoholic Body.

  • Put your vice on ice. Hate to be the party pooper, but yep, you’ve got to give up smoking (and excessive drinking too)—unless you strive for “smoker’s face” complete with grey, dull skin and wrinkled lips. Drinking a glass of red a day, on the other hand, isn’t so much a vice as a proven longevity booster. Phew.
  • Hit the snooze button. Well, actually, going to bed half an hour earlier would probably be wiser career-wise, but either way, the body benefits of sleeping a solid eight hours do transfer to your skin.
  • Zen out. Daily meditation, yoga or some kind of destressor will help keep your woes from weighing on your skin.
  • Chow down on anti-aging (read: proactive aging!) foods. No fad dieting here, just lots of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant-rich foods such as bright fruits and veggies, whole grains, sustainable coldwater fish (see seachoice.org for a pocket guide to eco-safe seafood), beans, nuts, as well as probiotics and lots of water and green tea. In food form the antioxidants will help keep age-related diseases including heart disease and cancer at bay. And if you pick local, organic options, you’ll be keeping the planet happy, too. By the way, don’t be fooled by all the marketing-hyped nutricosmetics available today (foods or drinks pushing cosmetic properties). You shouldn’t put too much stock in, say, vitamin drinks that claim to fight wrinkles or lighten skin with natural licorice extracts.
  • Pick a sunscreen that actually works. This is easier said than done when so few sunscreens are both safe AND effective. Once you find a good natural one that is free of estrogen mimickers, make sure you’re applying a quarter-sized squirt for each limb. Got a few suggestions in this week’s column and more here.

Oh and avoid creams with retinyl palmitate (linked to cancer when exposed to UV light) as well as other unsustainable palm-derived ingredients. As I’ve mentioned in the column, in my books and here in the blogosphere, vital rainforest and peatlands are being cleared and endangered species like the orangutan are being seriously threatened all to make way for palm plantations. If your fave products use palm-derived ingredients, let them know it’s time to go palm-free! 

Eye spy: Cruelty-free contact lens solution and greener glasses

If you’ve got 20/20 vision, move along. This blog post ain’t for you. But if you’d be squinting at the screen right now if it weren’t for the skills of your local optician, then welcome! This week’s column question in NOW came from a reader named Steph who wanted some direction on low impact eye care choices. I cover everything from cool recycled frames to disposable contacts, as well as laser eye surgery but one thing I didn’t get into was what goes into contact lens solution itself.  Obviously the drops you put in your eyes have to be mild enough to, well, put in your eyes. And guess how companies figure out whether those drops are eye-friendly? Sadly, by testing on animals. It never even occurred to me to look into the cruelty side of contacts until one reader, Lauren, posted the question on the Ecoholic Facebook page. The bad news is that it seems all the mainstream contact lens companies do indeed test their lenses and solution on animals.

The good news is there are a couple indy brands that offer cruelty-free options. Ecoholic readers in the US should be able to find some in local health stores but I’ve yet to see any in Canadian health shops. Make sure to let your local retailer know that you’d like some cruelty-free options (Clear Conscience is one good brand), but in the meantime, you’ll have to order it online.  And if you want to get a clearer picture of your contact lens solutions’ toxic ranking, jump on EWG’s Skin Deep database. They’ve got a couple (but not all) listed there.

I’m Dreaming of a Green Xmas: One of Kind Show (part 1)

If you’ve been anywhere near a mall or retail store of any kind lately, you know the holiday gift buying season is upon us and quickly escalating in frenzy-factor. My family isn’t big into holiday gift swapping (you should have seen the eye-rolling I got from my siblings when I suggested we at least make each other
DIY stuff -  I think the accompanying quote was, “That’s easy for you to say!”). Regardless, I still make a point of going to the One of A Kind Show every year (twice a year actually). I call it “work” (scoping for green artisans), but I also get to sneak in a few prezzies for, well, me, on the side. If you live in TO, Van City or Chicago you know the OOAKS is loaded with handmade, sustainably goodness.  If you’re expecting a lot of wood carved ornaments and fruit cakes, well, those are there, but it ain’t all crafts, sugar. I thought I’d give you a tour of some of the countless green retailers I stumbled upon in Part One of my OOAKS tour.

First of all, the places is loaded with some of my favourite eco clothing designers featured in Ecoholic Body like Atelier B, Lilikoi Clothing, eco plus size darling Chloe Angus and snuggly organic PJs by Schoolyard Studio. (All way better gift options than hitting Jacob or H&M!). I just happened score myself an awesome upcycled sweater dress from Susan Harris Design (pictured right, squeezed over my pants/ shirt!).  On the accessory front, one of my fave scarf/belt designers is Noujica (top/left) and the recycled leather queens at Cokluch

are awesome for scrap leather earrings, mitts and way more (left). Speaking of jewellery, Billy Would Designs, also in Ecoholic Body, does great reclaimed wood stuff. Met upcycled bag maker Mined reCreations, which will even do custom work with your old letter jacket/grandmother’s old wedding dress/dad’s fave blanket you name it (right).

Then there’s fab all natural bodycare like Matter Company (top right) and DaLish Cosmetics (FYI, the portable lip/cheek tints have serious staying power!).

And tons of other random/useful goodness, like The reCycler’s clocks and candlesticks made from old bike parts, Abeego‘s awesome beeswax cling wrap and so so much more. So much so that I didn’t have time see the whole show in the time I had. So I’m going back in…look out for part 2 for more sustainable, green brands/gift ideas.

 

 

Out with the Old Spice: How to avoid creepy chems in men’s gear

Some guys could probably survive on a bar of Irish Spring alone. In truth the average man uses six personal care products a day (think shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste, shaving cream, deodorant, aftershave), which ads up to a whopping 80 chems every morning. That number spikes for the growing posse of styly metrosexuals, Queer Eye for the Straight Guy disciples and grooming-conscious gents using men’s facial scrubs, anti-aging creams and beyond. That’s the topic of this week’s Ecoholic column in NOW Magazine, triggered by a new report from Environmental Defence entitled The Manscape: The Dirt On Toxic Ingredients in Men’s Bodycare Products.  I get into the nitty gritty around carcinogen and hormone disruptor-laced brands but didn’t get a chance to dig into more natural alternatives. Thought I’d share a few with you right here, right now.

  • Skip the shaving cream altogether and grab yourself a bottle of oil from your kitchen. Be it olive, grapeseed, safflower, sunflower, coconut, just rub a few drops on your damp face after showering and shave away. Super cheap and totally edible. (Coconut oil, by the way, is solid below 24 degrees so massage a dab in your palm to melt it). Still want shaving cream? Try Weleda’s.
  • Face feeling a little dry come winter? Dab a drop or two of any quality oil listed above on your face (and/or body) after your shower. My man’s actually hijacked my sample of Pure + Simple’s Sensitive Pitta Face Oil with anti-inflammatory neem oil (it’s also my pal Scott’s fave). Again, since you only use a drop at a time, these are surprisingly economical, and they’ll make your skin irresistibly touchable rather than a flakey mess.
  • Are you a Head and Shoulders man? Skip the chem-laced soup (which also happens to be toxic to aquatic life) and bypass shampoos with scalp-irritating sulfates. Lather up with a natural, herb-rich shampoo like Botanical Therapeutic shampoo or Ferlow Botanicals Neem Shampoo. Actually, you can buy any natural shampoo like, say, Green Beaver’s and add a few drops of neem oil (from the health store) to a to your morning lather. For tougher cases, put 1 teaspoon straight neem oil combined with a teaspoon of olive oil on your scalp and let sit before washing. Rinsing hair with 1 part apple cider vinegar 1 part warm water helps too.
  • Want to know which deodorants work? I’ll be writing up a bunch of new deodorant reviews on ecoholic.ca soon…in the meantime, my two male testers both love Penny Lane deodorant (I agree, it rocks!).
  • Looking for more natural storebought men’s personal care products? Check out Aubrey’s Men’s Stock products. Herbal Cowboy also has some “manly” scented vegan, phthalate-free products. Both are available at health stores. For more unisex product recommendations, pick up a copy of Ecoholic Body! I rate dozens of shampoos, toothpastes, you name it and offer up recipes too.
  • Sign these petitions! Tell Canada to take the toxins out of bodycare here. And tell Canada to, at the very least, warn us about existing carcinogens in bodycare here. 

What the palm? The rainforest-razing oil in…everything

Hand me a top hat and cane and I’ll sing about palm as a supercalafragalistic  plant-based petrochemical replacement. Gee willikers, you can add it to everything from lip balm to bathroom cleaner – amazing! But the song and dance come to a screeching halt when you start probing palm’s rainforest record. You know how headlines used to tell us that rainforest beef was clearcutting the Amazon? Well, now palm oil plantations are clearcutting rainforests in Indonesia, Malaysia, Liberia, Camaroon, and the list goes on. I get into some of the nitty gritty details in this week’s Ecoholic column in NOW mag. One reader, Tarama, had written in wondering how she can avoid the troubled ingredient.  Noted Tamara, “It seems almost everything from food, cosmetics and cleaning products (including environmentally friendly brands) include it.” That’s right, sister. Many of them do. So how do you avoid it?

When it comes to food, you’d think palm oil would be easy enough to spot and avoid on ingredient lists, but it’s also often the basis of what’s listed as “vegetable oil.” The EU is starting to demand that veggie oil makers put an end to the mystery. Unfortunately, that ain’t the case in North America so if a product won’t cough up details beyond “vegetable oil,” SKIP.

As for beauty products, palm can be hidden behind the name sodium laureth sulfate, sodium laurel sulfate, sodium laurel sulfoacetate (all of which can also be from coconuts) as well as glyceryl stearate, stearic acid, steareth-2 and steareth-20. I mention a few palm-free soap brands in this week’s column like Ella’s Botanicals and Lush.

When it comes to cleaners, even natural brands often use palm. It can be hard to know for sure since it’s not mandatory for companies to disclose their ingredient lists. When in doubt, try emailing your favourite natural brand and asking them whether they contain any palm-derived ingredients. I’m waiting to hear back from a couple myself. Let them know you want to support palm oil-free products. If all else fails, go back to basics. Baking soda and vinegar are totally palm-free.

Know of any other palm-free brands? Let me know!